I was very nearly locked up in the early hours of my third day in Japan. It was about 4am when the cops pounded on our door and I was groggy from jet lag and learning to sleep on a futon. I opened the door and three policemen stepped into our tiny rented flat, shouting and demanding our passports. I was terrified. I’d never had any dealings with the police at home, much less these officers who were making demands of me in a language I didn't understand.
Eventually, I caught the word “occupation” amongst the flurry of Japanese that was flying around. The words Mr Gillies taught me in year ten extracted themselves from deep in my cerebrum and found their way to my mouth. I started declaring loudly and often "nova no sensei desu" "nova no sensei desu" which was as close as I could muster to "I’m a teacher for Nova" "I’m a teacher for Nova".
Eventually, one of my flatmates was escorted through our door. She was dressed in white socks and an oversized police t-shirt. She’d partaken in some mushrooms of the magical variety* at a local bar the night before. She wasn't entirely sure of the order of events after that, but she’d disrobed in the club and asked to leave. She'd lost her mates, climbed a lamp post, removed her contacts and eventually been found by the local johnnys chatting with some homeless men in a local park. When she couldn't remember where she lived, the cops had taken her to the local lockup, given her some clothes and waited for her to remember where she lived.
The Police had figured we were all working illegally as hostesses. Hostesses are girls who entertain business men in high-end bars. Lots of gaijin (non-Japanese) girls were working as hostesses at the time, very few of them had visas that allowed them to work.
Once we produced our passports and our specialist visas, the cops were satisfied and left. The whole episode was over in twenty minutes, but it took the rest of the day for my heart rate to return to normal. This less than auspicious start, set the tone for my time in Japan. I wasn't a great English teacher and contact with home was restricted to scheduled calls from a phone box on the corner of our street. I was home within six months.
One of my favourite meals during my stay was okonomiyaki – a savoury pancake that is thought to have originated in the Osaka area. The name means “what you like" or "what you want”, so choose your fillings (or use your leftovers) and try one for yourself.
okonomiyaki - Japanese savoury pancakes
Ingredients:
120g okonomiyaki flour
170g water
3 eggs
120g meat, cut bite sized (try bacon, prawns, chicken, pork or a combination)
¼ cabbage, shredded
1 zucchini, grated
1 carrot, grated
2 spring onions, finely chopped
okonomiyaki sauce
kewpie mayonnaise
vegetable oil for frying
aonori (seaweed flakes)
katsuobushi (bonito flakes)
Okonomiyaki flour, okonomiyaki sauce, seaweed and bonito flakes are available at specialty Asian grocers. You can buy kewpie mayonnaise in the Asian food aisle of most major supermarkets.
Method:
Combine the flour and water in a medium bowl, whisk until smooth. Add the eggs, meat and vegetables to the batter.
Heat oil in a large fry pan. Pour enough batter to make a pancake about 15-20cm across. Cook over a low-medium heat for about five minutes, then flip cook for a further five minutes, or until golden brown.
Place the pancake on a serving plate, spread with okonomi sauce and mayonnaise. Sprinkle with chopped seaweed and dried bonito flakes. Serve immediately, while the katsuobushi are still waving.
I have some great memories of my time Japan. That said, I've never been tempted to try magic mushrooms and I didn't have any further dealings with police until I narrowly dodged being banged up abroad in Madagascar, eight years later.
ever eaten anything that didn’t agree with you?
or been on the wrong side of the law?
*Shrooms are legal in Japan, and you could order them off the menu in a few bars that I visited.
mumabulous says
Anata no tomodachi wa baka desu ne.
Amanda, Cooker and a Looker says
Hai Brenda san, baka desu ne!
muchavida says
Patricia loves okonomiyaki! 😉
Thanks!
Amanda, Cooker and a Looker says
I knew there was a reason I liked her so much Alberto! 😉
homelifesimplified says
Yum yum yum got to make this. Is the flour available in the supermarket near the sushi supplies?
Am amazed that shrooms are legal there lol. Deb xx
Amanda, Cooker and a Looker says
I haven't seen it at the supermarket up here Deb, but the Sunshine Coast can be a bit behind on things like this. Otherwise, I think the original recipe uses plain flour and grated yam. That said, it might be easier to head to an Asian grocer! 🙂
Lydia C. Lee says
Oooo, do tell the Madagascar story! I'd love to go there...
Amanda, Cooker and a Looker says
I'm busting to take the kids Lydia. If only we would win the lottery! 🙂
Judy Thornton says
oh man I love Japanese food! I'm going to have to make this for sure!
Where can I get the flour? I suppose I can google it. Anyway, your experience in Japan must have been totally amazing!
Judy Thornton says
oh...sorry I didn't see the bit where you wrote where we can buy it from. Sorry.
Amanda, Cooker and a Looker says
I got mine from Asian Food 4 U at Maroochydore Judy - they have an online shop, but you're probably best finding one locally. 🙂
Seana - Sydney, Kids, Food + Travel says
What's the flour made from? Is it a different grain? I had never heard of this until I saw Gournet Girlfrien'ds brekkie pic the other day and your comment. Have never been to Japan, when will I ever get there? Never been locked up... been chatted up by policemen in Sicily ... but not for a while!
Amanda, Cooker and a Looker says
I suspect the flour is a mix of plain flour, dried yam/potato and seasoning Seana. Bearhands was a bit surprised. He's declared it "one of the tastiest things he's ever put in his gob." High praise!
EssentiallyJess says
Oh I think I would have been tempted to head home right then and there! Was your friend embarrased the next day? What a mortifying experience!
Amanda, Cooker and a Looker says
She was pretty shaken up Jess. She left for home a few days later.
always josefa (@always_josefa) says
What a horrible way to start your stay in Japan! I would love to hear your friends story from that night 😉 We spent a few weeks travelling in Japan and loved every moment, much nicer when you are visiting than when you are there working I'm sure xx
Josefa from #teamIBOT
Amanda, Cooker and a Looker says
I'd love to go back for a proper explore Josefa. It's a wonderful place.
Author Bek Mugridge (@bekmugridge) says
Wow what a full on start to your adventure!
I think there could be a book in that (with your yummy recipes too 🙂
Amanda, Cooker and a Looker says
It sure was Bek!
Have a laugh on me says
Wow what a freaky/exciting morning that was! You sure have lived life my friend. I have to say I think it's kinda funny, in hindsight I'm sure you do too! I reckon I'd be a crap English teacher - just have no patience 🙂 x
Amanda, Cooker and a Looker says
It's funny in hindsight Em. Also, 34 year old me gives 21 year old me props for being brave enough to move to a country where I didn't know a soul and didn't speak the language.
Karen says
I spent a few weeks in Osaka and never even sampled this, what is wrong with me!!! I'll have to try it out, sounds right up my alley.
Its amazing how much highschool Japanese comes back to you in the heat of the moment haha!! x Karen
Lisa@RandomActsOfZen says
Wow Amanda, what a start to your time in Japan! It must be funny when you look back on it now 🙂
Kim says
Legal shrooms and naked flatmates?! Hilarious for me to read, terrifying for you to live through. Thanks for doing it so I can enjoy it now Amanda. I still haven't tried okinomiyaki - I go raw almost every time I get near Japanese food but I'm determined, at some point, I'll eat it. When all the sashimi is gone, perhaps when the seas have been all fished dry. 🙂
BOYEATSWORLD says
I love okinomiyaki. In fact this family loves anything Japanese. We're hoping to hea dover later this year with the kids. Hopefully our trip wont involve naked flatmates or shrooms! 🙂
Andrea says
I got locked up in the holding cell in Hamburg once, for using my credit card......I had lost my wallet about 4 months before and cancelled all my cards, It was then returned to me intact, and I called the bank to uncancel my cards.....well, turns out the bank didn't know you CANT. So when I was buying music in the store in Hamburg it came up as a stolen card. Luckily I was able to prove my identity, and that it was my card. Forever thankful that I was in Germany and spoke German, and not in some remote country in the third world....
Malinda @mybrownpaperpackages says
I'm headed to japan in a few weeks and can't wait to try okonomiyaki